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Where to eat
Here are my favorite restaurants. I will present them on this page and it is likely going to change depending on the mood I am in from time to time. (updated October 2010)
This list is presented in no order of preference. It is highly subjective and not only based on the food served in these restaurants but on total experience, originality, uniqueness, produce quality and culinary ability. So who are they?
Etxebarri, Axpe in Spain – After the first bite I had from master griller Victor, I fell in love. It is atypical as a restaurant. The produce is simply impeccable and Victor’s grilling remains the reference.
Kawamurra, Tokyo – It is claimed to serve the best beef in Tokyo, and I cannot dispute that. Never have I had beef like it and so superbly cooked. But beware, reservations here are incredibly difficult to come by.
Koju, Tokyo, Vedat Milor of Gastromondiale, likened it to the l’Ambroisie of Japan or maybe he said, “l’Ambroisie is the Koju of Paris”. A great acclaim but very well worth it. Many chefs I know considers Koju one of the very best restaurants on this planet. I can only agree. I almost daily dream of some of Okudo-san’s preparations, for instance his heavenly grilled eel.
Manresa, Los Gatos in California – David Kinch is a chef that continues to impress me. Most chefs tend to stop developing and perhaps even to fade a bit when they reach 45 years old. David is the exception that confirms the rule. David seems to continue to evolve like a great wine from a great vintage. His relentless search for new produce, new preparations and excellence in conducting his business and his respect for the produce and cooking traditions is second to none. It is a pity he is so far away. Since he has now climbed the mountain, I expect him to earn his third Michelin star this year.
L’Ami Jean, Paris – One of my favorite places in Paris to eat, but I never go there more than twice a day. Stephane Jego sometimes turns out spectacular dishes, such as the recent two months aged Kobe-style beef from Spain and whole line caught turbot slowcooked on the plancha. The only complaint I have is that portions sometimes tend to be a bit too generous but that is the way this special friend of mine is like.
Mizutani, Tokyo - The reference for sushi. A must for any serious foodie to try.
Mirazur, Menton in France – Mauro Collagreco is a friend of mine, like David Kinch and Rocco Iannone. I am not colored by that when I mention them as my current favorite places. Mauro is one of the most talented young chefs I have seen. What he has accomplished with very small means is nothing short of sensational. He gained a first Michelin star within a year of opening the restaurant and won the prestigious Gault Millau chef de l’année this year. Yes, he also entered the 50 best list this year, which means that he also knows how to pull the marketing strings.
Pappacarbone, Cava de’Tirenni in Italy – Rocco Iannone is really a one of a kind chef. The produce at his restaurant, especially the seafood, beats just about any other restaurant in Europe and North America. There are no secrets. Rocco literally never receives any deliveries to his restaurant. He goes to fishermen, fish mongers, farmers or his garden and selects the best he can find at each place. His menu changes daily accordingly. Rocco has quite a bit to teach the other Italian chefs, many of which have fallen in the molecular gastronomy trap with an ignorance towards produce quality as a result.
Sawada, Tokyo – One of the most memorable sushi meals I have had was prepared by Sawada-san. His produce are second to none. Those who think sushi is “shopping not cooking” will be silenced by his techniques.
The Sportsman, Whistable – For me the most interesting restaurant in the UK. Chef Stephen Harris is self-taught and turns out food prepared with magnificent ingredients with a clarity only found in the very best of restaurants. It is a fun place to eat in that is about food and not design or decoration of the restaurant. The only problem is that Whistable is a bit out of the way, but the journey to go there and eat Stephen’s food is time well spent.