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Category Archives: Old Restaurant Reviews
A trip to Spain
In late spring I partly traveled in Vedat’s footsteps in Spain having meals at El Poblet, Can Roca, l’Esguard, Abac and Joan Gatell. I will already say that El Poblet was the restaurant that made the trip well worth. Joan Gatell It is a treat to eat on the second floor terrace of Joan Gatell [...]
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Pre Catelan – Should this really be counted as one of the best restaurants in Paris or France?
I felt compelled to give Pré Catelan a try after rumours in le Figaro earlier this year that Pré Catelan and its chef Frederic Anton was about to be awarded the ultimate award for a chef, three Michelin stars. Somewhat mixed reports on Pré Catelan coupled with the fantastic selection of great restaurants on the [...]
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Mirazur – The birth of a star
The most notable discovery and new opening that I have witnessed for a long time is without a question Mirazur in Menton by chef Mauro Colagreco and front of the house manager Alain Kerloc’h, both with background from Alain Passard. It is getting increasingly rare that the talented young chefs in France open their own [...]
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Jacques Chibois – Uninspiring but consistent
I might as well start with saying that Jacques Chibois’s cuisine, as it is served in his Bastide Saint-Antoine outside Grasse, has never impressed me. Frankly the popularity of this restaurant on the Riviera has always surprised me. Of course, the setting is almost dreamlike, picture perfect and how one imagines a country side bastide [...]
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Relais Louis XIII – Sloppy cooking and average ingredients in historic setting
Relais Louis XIII in Paris is a restaurant that I have wanted to try for quite some time. The chef Mr. Martinez has an impressive CV and is MOF. His restaurant, holding 2 Michelin stars, is about as much under the radar as one can be in the foodie communities. You literally never hear anyone [...]
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Les Ambassadeurs – Almost perfect ingredients but imperfect conception
Readers may remember the two fantastic meals I had earlier this year at Les Ambassadeurs. Several dishes, the fantastic Cevennes onion tart, the sweet breads and the huge scallop with a perfect vinaigrette all rest in clear memory. In fact the onion tart bears the signs of one of those rare really great dishes that [...]
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L’AMBROISIE: ABSOLUTE PERFECTION
What is the measure of true greatness in French cuisine? In my opinion there is one overriding measure. A meal prepared by a great chef should achieve an absolute harmony without sacrificing the complex flavor profile of classic French cooking, while also giving the impression of clarity and light handedness in cooking. At the end [...]
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Arpege
Is Alain Passard a near magician who can cook with his left hand, so to speak, and still concoct absolutely perfect dishes? Probably. Few can compete with him to create such elegant and amazingly harmonious dishes, which look simple on the plate but reveal so much intensity and complexity with each bite without losing focus. [...]
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Martin Berasategui, not convincing
On a recent trip to the Basque country I tried a number of restuarants in this part of Europe that is often touted as one of the epicentres of culinary vanguard. I shall report on some of the visits I made. First out is the meal at Martin Berasategui. The day I went to Martin [...]
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Les Ambassadeurs
Vedat and I have taken a particularly interest in visiting the up and coming French restaurants or the so called espoirs to gain the coveted Michelin 3-star rating. On a recent Paris trip I had le Meurice and les Ambassadeurs on the program. It was not without some scepticism I returned to les Ambassadeurs to [...]
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Troisgros – One of the temples of haute cuisine
Troisgros is one of my favourite restaurants. There is little not to like with the fantastic often simple yet at the same time sophisticated cuisine prepared with top class ingredients, the elegant cool and cosy interior and the practically faultless service provided by some of the most experienced, friendly and casual waiters on the French [...]
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Arnolfo – a snapshot of the state of Tuscan dining?