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April 06, 2005

Asparagus - Part I in a series of different recipies

The season for asparagus is here. There are plenty of green asparagus, small and large, thin and thick, white asparagus with white tips, with purple tips or with green tips and wild asparagus. Which are the best? If they are or high quality and fresh, preferably cut the same morning, all are great to use.


Green asparagus with whipped apple butter and spiced veal reduction

I was thinking of having a small series of suggestions for asparagus. Suggestions that are a little less common than what is found in most cookbooks. They may not always be to everyone’s tastes but they will hopefully provide inspiration not to miss the high season of a great produce.

This time I use smaller quite greenish asparagus from Italy.

For two people as a first course you need:

9 green asparagus
1 Granny Smith apple
Lemon juice
Fresh ginger
3-4 table spoons of butter
1 table spoon of veal fond

Make the apple butter first. Peal the apple and dice it in small cubes. Heat a little water in a pan and add the diced apple and cover. Let the apple simmer until it turns soft and you can separate the liquid by pressing the apple dice in a sieve. It should not be so soft that you easily press the apple through the sieve. Reduce the liquid somewhat and add 2-3 table spoons of butter. Add a little lemon. It needs to have some acidity present in the taste. Whisk until it emulsifies and let it cool, whisking regularly. You may have to cool the mixture for a few moments in the fridge. When the butter starts to set, whisk harder until the texture is somewhat like very firmly beaten egg whites but denser. A friend at university gave me the idea many many years ago to serve whipped butter like this. He used to eat Indian whipped butter with French fries and although that came around as somewhat greasy, it turned out to be great to blend some lemon and herbs with whipped butter and serve it with fish for example.

Heat a few table spoons of water with a tablespoon of butter in a pan. Cook 8 of the asparagus in this liquid with a paper cover and roll them around every now and then. The idea is that when they are ready the liquid is vaporized and the residual butter enables them to be seared a little during the last moments of the cooking. Discard most of the remaining fat but keep any juices left and glaze with a little veal fond and season with a hint of ginger. The taste of ginger must only be just barely felt in the jus. For the adventurous, other spices may be added.

Plate the dish, garnish with some very thin slices of one asparagus and place a spoon of the apple butter on top and serve immediately.

The tart taste of Granny Smith apples will work quite well with small very green asparagus that have a very “green” taste. It also works with white asparagus. Personally I dislike this green taste that often is transformed into a “cooked” or “canned” taste when cooking small green asparagus in boiling water.
/MJ

Posted on April 6, 2005 02:01 AM

Comments

Excellent photos,again, both asparagus and Le Beaulieu.

Great asparagus is a gift. Your recipe looks wonderful and I love the apple butter. A couple of comments. You can place the bowl with the butter and green apple juice on a bowl of ice and whisk it. it emulsifies rapidly and is easy to control. Gagnaire writes about this technique on his website with H. This under "Foie Gras Chantilly". he also does it with chocolate.

How do you feel about cleaning off the smal outer leaves below the head of the asparagus to "shape" the tip? And peeling? I like to peel asparagus because, even though it might be tender enough, it adds a textural contrast and complexity completely different from the unpeeled part of the whole. the color contrast is beautiful too.

Posted by: Sam Grimes [TypeKey Profile Page] at April 7, 2005 09:06 AM

Absolutely, correct remark about how you can do the butter. I only now noticed it being called Chantilly by This. Not an adequate name perhaps but really the same thing. Actually, the same kind of butter is often used in pastries. So it is not as such particularly new. Another good way of doing this butter is to cook beets in butter in a sous-vide bag and whip the butter with the residual juices. Quite good with meat.

Cleaning off should be done with large and thick asparagus for exactly that reason you say. With thinner ones like these I am against it since you loose some of the "green" taste that I look for in this recipe. But sure, you can peel some of it anyway for the visual effect. With the thinner ones I think there is lees to gain from a texture contrast point of view.

Posted by: Mikael at April 7, 2005 11:55 AM

The Alain Ducasse technique for roasting asparagus raw is great also. One melts a fair amount of butter in a pan, take it to "noisette" and then roll the asparagus constantly in the pan to cook it through. One must moderate the heat gently so it doesn't burn but finishing the asparagus with some of the butter, a squeeze of lemon juice and then fresh grated parmigiano is a real treat.

Posted by: Sam Grimes at April 7, 2005 07:26 PM

Yes it is great. But do you agree with me that it is better for somewhat larger and thicker asparagus? The cooking in butter gives a layer of the asparagus a nutty buttery taste which is great with the parmesan and yet the center of the asparagus tastes asparagus.

For white asparagus I often suggest the same but using a very light olive oil instead of butter. For example one from Liguria.

Many vegetetables that contain fair amounts of water, such as asparagus, are really better cooked with or in their own liquid so to speak, which is the result of rolling them in the butter.

Posted by: Mikael at April 7, 2005 08:34 PM

Yes, the larger and thicker the better for this technique. I was curious about trying it with White asparagus. I am glad that you have tried it. I would have thought it might have played up the inherit bitterness but perhaps not.
I shall give it a try.

Posted by: Sam Grimes at April 8, 2005 12:15 AM

I find a mild olive oil with some water is perfect for white asparagus. They surely cannot be searad to the same extent as the green and one should not use the most bitter examples, but I avoid them anyway.

Posted by: Mikael at April 8, 2005 05:17 AM

I tried this last night and enjoyed it very much. The whipped butter was delicious with the asparagus and one of the diners said that although he didn't normally like flavored butters, he liked this very much because the apple flavor was subtle and not overpowering. Thanks Mikael.

Posted by: Jeff at April 11, 2005 12:30 AM

Great post on one of my all time favourite vegetables. Did you know you can get purple asparagus too? It tastes much like the green and loses colour when cooked.

A couple of questions - is there a way to find out how bitter the white is before purchase? I was recently burnt by a stringy bitter bundle of white and now I have been put off them.

Also - i was wondering what you think about dedicated asparagus steamers? I have long coveted one, but maybe they are no more than a gimmick? What do you think?

thanks

Sam

Posted by: Sam at April 15, 2005 12:48 AM