Gastroville: PERFECTION REVISITED: l’AMBROISIE AND LEDOYEN

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December 19, 2007

PERFECTION REVISITED: l’AMBROISIE AND LEDOYEN

Given the despicable situation of the dollar vis a vis the Euro, I became reluctant to take chances with erratic three stars in France and elsewhere. So, in a recent trip in November we visited the old favorites: L’Ambroisie and Ledoyen.

I am happy to report that both restaurants are holding the highest standards, and both Pacaud and LeSquer are perfectionists albeit in different ways. Le Squer’s cuisine is still evolving and has not yet reached the impeccable maturity displayed by the 60 year old Pacaud who is still at the helm and looks very fit. While Le Squer is still tinkering with tradition and introducing some new dishes and amuses, Pacaud has attained a level of self confidence that should secure his name alongside the greatest chefs of this century.

Here are some short notes from the recent visits.

The meal at Ledoyen began with playful amuses—raw langoustine balls, beet macaroons, spicy samozas, and mozzarella in a spoon (a la Adria) -- that were more fun to look at than sheer taste. But an onion puree topped by rosemary crème glacee drove home the point that we were in serious territory.

Pacaud does not want us to waste time with modish concoctions. His time tested “gougeres” with comte cheese are simply the best way to start a meal with Roederer champagne. He then sent to our table quasi raw slices of the freshest imaginable scallops from Brittany covered with a very foamy beurre blanc and topped by thickly cut Alba magnatum pico. When the foam melts, the cresson (watercress) puree shines like an emerald. This dish requires impeccable timing and should be served when it is hot. It is a great example of “terre et mer” combination.

Both restaurants found a good supply of Alba truffles in a difficult year. Le Squer of Ledoyen made great use of them in two successive courses. His “gnocchi with Alba truffles” was stunning for someone who had just come from Alba, because nobody in Italy (or elsewhere) makes gnocchi like a soufflé. They were so airy and light that one wonders if they are real. At the bottom of the dish were two thin layers: reggiano fondue and puree of Jerusalem artichokes. And there were good shavings of truffles on top. This dish shows why French cuisine still leads the world today. It takes two separate classics of Italian cuisine: fonduta with a root vegetable and gnocchi. It then blends them and plays with the texture to bring out the best in the truffle aroma. It was intelligent and harmonious. The use of technique (soufflé gnocchi) is not an end in itself, but a means to create a vehicle for truffle.

The next dish was equally successful. Le Squer is from Brittany, and he knows the best of shellfish. His scallops were on par with Pacaud in quality. He presented them in the shell. Then they were de-shelled. The scallops were barely steamed in the shell, and when they are that good—they are divine. Served with cooking juices, some turnips, and a generous shaving of white truffles, the dish was sublime.

Pacaud at L’Ambroise is also from Brittany, and his line caught large sea bass, which was delivered with a special means to the restaurant, was amazingly sweet and firm. Make sure you order the “escalopines de bar de ligne a l’emincee d’artichaut, caviar oscietre gold” when you see it on the menu. The raw thinly cut crunchy artichokes marry well with the seabass, and the cream sauce is both light and intense. The generous use of caviar, which does not get soggy and retains its texture in a warm dish, is a Pacaud secret. This dish is clearly a 20/20.

Both chefs like Brittany lobster. Le Squer at Ledoyen cooked it with a sealed lid, with a few tomatoes, chanterelles and chestnut. The dish is solid, very good.

But, I should say, the lobster at L’Ambroisie was not just better, it was “hors de classification,” because it is simply the best Breton lobster dish there is. (Yes I know the Roellinger versions.) The dish is called “fricassee de homard aux chataignes et potimarron, sauce diable”. One detects very fine ginger and espelette pepper taste in the sauce made by pressing the carcass. This dish alerts all the senses simultaneously. The balance it strikes between firm/iodized/sweet/salty/nutty/spicy should be tasted to be believed. It is a very complex, but not complicated dish, which is made to look simple.

We finished the meal with a rustic dish at Ledoyen. “Spaghetti au Jambon Blanc, Truffe et Parmesan.” The dish was both delicious and technically impeccable. Basically it is a Lard/black truffle combination which works. The rectangle box made from spaghetti contains quite a few nice surprises inside. Order it and see for yourself. Had LeSquer been born in Italy he would have been the only Italian chef that deserves three stars—I mean in the heyday of Michelin when stars were not given out as confettis.

When it is late fall, Pacaud at L’Ambroisie prepares the best game pie on earth: “Tourte de canard Colvert”. Since I have written before on this dish I won’t repeat it. Suffice it to say that the four elements of the dish, the wild duck breast, the thigh, the filet of veal, and duck liver, were all cooked to perfection. It was cooked to order, and the crust was perfect

Desserts are a strong suit in both places. Possibly “croquant de pamplemousse” at Ledoyen is the best grapefruit based dessert in Paris, and his “blanc manger” infused with yeast flavor is reminiscent of someone’s childhood memories growing up next to a bakery in the French countryside.

In return Pacaud offers very refreshing desserts which go well after the rich tart (such as “Strates de nougatine a la poire sorbet William.” But his classic “Tarte fine sable au cacao amer, glace a la vanilla” is still unsurpassed in this world as far as chocolate desserts go.

Both restaurants do possess some of the most professional hosts any restaurant can aspire to have, and Monsieur Simiand at Ledoyen and Madame Pacaud and Monsieur Lemoullac at L’Ambroisie (and the captains, such as Pascal Vettaux at L’Ambroisie whose advice should be asked for) are as important to the institutionalization of these two restaurants as the kitchen staff.

It is also advisable to interact with Monsieur Tournier at Ledoyen and Monsieur Lemoullac at L’Ambroisie to learn about some gems on the wine list which are not obvious. I don’t want to mention some of them by name because I want to drink these bottles myself, and would hate to see them vanish from the list!

Gastroville ranking:
L’Ambroisie 19.5 (Vedat Milor)
Ledoyen 19 (Vedat Milor)

Posted on December 19, 2007 11:12 AM

Comments

All sounds near-on perfection. I am desperate to try these places. Can I borrow €600? :)

Posted by: Chris at December 19, 2007 04:58 PM

We have been to Ledoyen for a lunch in november...

yes the amuse bouches are not great.
yes first and second courses are great.
yes it does worth to go there just for that great wine which I won't give the name.

On the other hand the service was ok but not exceptional. And, although there isn't any separation for smokers, it is possible enjoy a good, powerful cuban cigar once you've finished your lunch. You don't even have to care about the people next to you who are trying have their lunch under a thick cigar smoke!

Posted by: Arda at December 19, 2007 06:10 PM

Wow those scallops look amazing! They must have been twice of size of your palm. But is it me or does it look like its been sealed with dough and cooked whole?

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Please join my group on facebook . . . Restaurant L'Ambroisie Bernard Pacaud Appreciation Society. We have 45 members and 66 pictures posted.

I had the 'bar' with artichokes and caviar. It was the best thing I've ever eaten in my life.

Posted by: Scott Solomon at December 21, 2007 01:29 AM

Vedat,

If you were to write about L'Ambroisie every month I would not tire of it. It is a pleasure to read about your passion for this restaurant and always welcome as far as I am concerned.

Robert

Posted by: Robert R at December 21, 2007 03:34 AM

Thanks for another exciting report. I have been troubled lately by several reports of obnoxious behaviours from l'Ambroisie staff towards non regulars. It is clear that, at their best, they are wonderful. But it seems clear also that they sometimes have unnecessarily cold, distant and even despising manners with people they do not know. It makes me sad and ashamed (see for instance ajgnet recent report on eGullet), all the more so since Pacaud's cooking is officially a highlight of our civilisation.

Posted by: julotlespinceaux at December 21, 2007 08:06 AM

I had a wonderful experience as a single diner at L'ambroisie in September. From the moment I arrived, to the moment I left the service was superb: The food was extraordinary, including the wonderful bar, and the chocolate cake.

Posted by: Sethd at December 22, 2007 05:00 PM

Boy, I live so close to Ambrosie, but never went inside.

Wonder if I could get a wedge of that chocolate cake, to go?

Posted by: David at December 23, 2007 01:16 PM

It is hard to comment about incidences when one does not observe them. But I can see that the values embodied by certain French people and institutions(such as l'Ambroisie) are the polar opposite of American values.

You have selective/discretionary/elitist norms versus inclusive/populist/anti intellectual norms.

French form "relations" Americans "network". Different forms of political economy (state-economy relations) are responsible for that.

At best both cultures are individualistic/perfectionist but they praise different things. French are much less materialistic in that sense.

At worst French keep thinking that Americans are superficial/shallow and Americans think French are arrogant/rigid.

On my part the most important thing is that American women are more malleable than French women!

Posted by: vedat milor at December 25, 2007 12:04 AM

Thanks for your response, Vedat. You are no doubt right about the cultural differences, and probably the worst reports are due to that kind of misunderstanding on the respective roles of the customers and the restaurants. My own l'Ambroisie experience, however, is not inconsistent with those reports, and, being borned and raised in Paris and rather familiar from restaurants, I don't think that can be attributed to cultural differences, all the more since some of my l'Ambroisie meals including magic service. But some others were plain cold and distant and not responding to my queries for help, eg for ordering. And that was just puzzling. Anyway, a new visit is obviously in order, despite the disappointing truffle season.

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Obviously I am an American, and I have always very much disliked this term "networking," and the exhortations one listens to in MBA programs, etc. "to network." I prefer the expression of "making connections," -- I suppose very close to your description "relationships."

And obviously a "relationship" depends on the "personality" of the person or institution you have the relationship with. julotlespinceaux has described in his writing that with Pacaud every dish seems like his life is riding on how good it is. By contrast, the trend seems to be that chefs strive to become wealthy restauranteurs and "brand names" rather than following the Pacaud model.

I would assume that after 25+ years, the personality/character/priorities of a chef like Pacaud who puts so much of himself into the daily "product" of his one restaurant would "infuse" the institution itself. I would guess that once your relationship with L'Ambroisie is established, it's like the greatest love affair you'll ever remember. Until that moment, though, as an institution, it might be a bit wary of you.

The multi-restaurant owning chef/restauranteurs have a different end goal, so they have a more dispassionate "incentive" to formalize/standardize the way people are treated. Uniformity of the "product" at different locations is a good thing. Personally, I would much prefer working my way to the great love affair. The great Andre Soltner once said that for him "he had to love the people out there in the dining room."

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We're going to Paris next week, so maybe it's time to try Ledoyen again. Thanks again for arranging that superb game tart.

As you know, our first visit to L'Ambroisie was marred by some serious service issues, I might even go so far as to say hostility, possibly brought on by the fact that my sister was dressed in a ragged purple sweatshirt. Funny, she used to be too embarrassed to be seen with me in high school, but in Paris it is the other way around. Thank goodness Vedat helped me get back into the restaurant's good graces, but it has still taken regular visits over 5 years to get that duck tourte. During that time I have also experienced that hot-cold inconsistency that Julot mentions, and I have always assumed it is because I am still insufficiently established on my own merits.

I think the French "relationship" is a long, sometimes excruciatingly slow building of trust and communication over time, and I have honestly never encountered anything like it in America. This is not a criticism, just an observation, like the personality difference of an aloof Siamese cat and a friendly Labrador. The formal, sometimes glacial reserve gradually melts into a truly warm and collegiate mutual understanding. A new customer is held at arm's length--hopefully polite--until dues have been paid. It can take years of patronizing a shop or restaurant to get the really good stuff. "Networking" might be even more important in France than in America. Because of the high value placed on personal relationships, an introduction from a regular can be invaluable. This is also true in Japan, a very similar society to France in many ways.

Alain Ducasse is probably the global chef-preneur par excellence, and while the service across the board is much more universalized than a place like L'Ambroisie, it is still possible to develop that personal relationship with the individual restaurants of the empire. Mikael's relationship with Louis XV illustrates this point.

The French relationship can be very rewarding and gratifying, but sometimes I prefer American shallow democracy. I remember there used to be a neighborhood restaurant across the street from our Paris apartment that was never complet unless we presumed to ask for a table. I could book L'Astrance easier than Le Bistro En Face.

Anyway, stellar report as usual, Vedat.

Posted by: Culinista at January 10, 2008 06:48 PM

PS: What do you mean by malleable women? I hear yoga is catching on in Paris lately!

Posted by: Culinista at January 10, 2008 06:50 PM

My experience: I ate there one time. I felt like what they served me was the best. The waiter captain was very friendly and spoke to me in English (even more friendly toward the end of the meal). The wine dude didn't seem like he was gonna dance around the restaurant because I ordered an EUR 90 Volnay, but the interaction was fine and the wine was great.

And I can't think of any restaurant in the U.S. I'd wanna eat at 1/10 as much as I'd want to eat at L'Ambroisie. I don't care how friendly the service is at said US restaurant.

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