Gastroville

Execution and presentation of the cuisine is as good as one can expect from such a professional operation; precise timing, perfectly cut garnish, good seasoning, very good if not exceptional produce and platings by a team attending to detail. Yet the characteristics often intimately connected with the large palace brigades are a bit too present; one-dimensionality, lack of style, lack of originality and lack of excitement.

After a few somewhat definition lacking nibbles, a Baba truffé, imibé au vin jaune et bouillon de poule, aileron de volaille farci was served. The baba was beautifully displayed under a small stack of truffle juliennes. The hen bouillon was poured over it. What gourmandize it could have been this showcase of classic taste combination with different textures, different taste nuances and truffles, dark black, as they should be late in the season. Truffles were only good rather than exceptional. The truffles were quickly overshadowed and overpowered by the much too smoky hen bouillon and smoked streaky bacon. After only a few spoons of the bouillon, the taste of truffles had vanished in the juxtaposition of smokiness.

A few scallops with clams (coques) on a watercress purée like sauce followed. Equally beautifully plated and cooked “à point”. Slightly rubbery scallops, which if I had to guess had been on land for three days, but still good although a shadow of what they can be. The watercress tasted clams and the clams tasted clams. The result was one-dimensional with no contrast, no support or enhancement to the scallops. Despite the general perception that scallops are bland, scallops have much flavor on their own and possess an incredible ability to grow in presence with several contrasting flavors. Here the scallops were left in dullness.

Next up was a sea bass from the Yeu Island. A superbly cooked piece from a 4-6 kg sea bass, but it was a sea bass in disguise, fully coated by tandoori powder and accompanied by cabbage enhanced with lemons and ginger and a shellfish reduction. Indeed the tandoori-taste was so present and much too long-lingering that the taste, not only completely masked any taste characteristics of a great sea bass, but was also, at least in my mind or imagination, much too present even after the dish that followed. Was the origin of the sea bass stated because it was unrecognizable? Why was this sea bass on a postmortem masquerade? Was it a bridal dress to disguise a poor quality fish? Well, the fish did not have that so seductive texture of a day-fresh sea bass, like firm mashed potatoes, which one can have at l’Ambroise with Pacaud’s fabulous caviar sauce. But sea bass can be equally interesting if it is a few days old and the texture has firmed up a bit. The back of the skin, impenetrable by the tandoori, smelt of fish but other than that there were no traces of a not so fresh fish. A pointless preparation in which the fish could have been replaced by a slab of Soya protein, the ultimate test of the presence of a massacre of a great ingredient.

The duck that took over the role from the poor sea bass was exceptional. It is indeed rare to encounter duck with such appealing texture, firm yet exceptionally tender and cooked to a pink perfection. Glazed turnips, a nice orange confit and a slightly over-sweetened fig accompanied the duck. A superb balance of flavours that lifted the duck a step or two. Bravo Mr. Frechon! But the pommes soufflées served on the side should never have left the kitchen. They will rest in memory as an antithesis to pommes soufflées that should be crisp, tasty and irresistible. Frechon’s version was much too over-salted and soggy.

The cheese board was delivered by Madame Marie Anne de Cantin. It is a good source for cheese but a class below the top suppliers such as Bernard Antony.

Desserts were the highlights. Especially the chocolate dessert prepared with Venezuelan Criollo chocolate provided a superb show of different chocolate tastes at different temperatures and taste nuances. A real treat.

This is a very good restaurant but it is too expensive for what it is and some of the ingredients could have been better. Gastroville score: 16/20.

Should you go? There are other palace-like restaurants in Paris that provide better food and better wine selections at approximately the same price but it is still worth trying.
/MJ